Purpose:

"Peace requires the simple but powerful recognition that what we have in common as human beings is more important and crucial than what divides us."
-Sargent Shriver


Sunday, February 24, 2013

BMW in Tanzania






Hello fellow bloggers-

I feel like an all-star because I get to be a guest blogger on Ellen’s blog! I’m not a blogger, so this may be a bumpy read. Keep a couple things in mind as I unravel my nonlinear thoughts about my trip to Tanzania: 1) it was a trip of a lifetime (this is not a cheesy line but the truth, as it was literally a trip of a lifetime), 2) I had the opportunity to see Ellen at her best (being lazy all day on a beach, what’s new…), and 3) I caught the travel bug (the ones that make you want to travel more and the ones that keep you in the bathroom all day).  

*Warning: if this blog appears less funny than usual, it is because Ellen edited out some of the funny stories that were in the original version I sent to her.  Reader beware. 

Now this is the story all about how / My life got flipped, turned upside down/ And I ‘d like to take a minute , just sit right there/ I’ll tell you how I became mkuu of Ngorongoro Crater
Let’s start with the pre-flight trip. It’s Christmas day, and I’m about 24 hours away from fleeing Kansas City to see Ellen in Tanzania. Cara stops by for a quick chat Christmas night. It’s nice to have Cara there because I am scatterbrained.  My mind is in a million places, and I can barely sit still anticipating the next few hours before I board my first international airplane. Is everything packed? What’s the flight going to be like? Will I get any sleep tonight? Man, I will miss eating cereal for three weeks.  What is Ellen thinking right now? Malaria pills suck. Will I have to take a bucket bath…bleh. Should I pack some Gushers? Have I told friends and family goodbye?    

The morning of the trip is here. I’m running on pure adrenaline at this point. I’m up two hours earlier than I need to be, and I can’t fall back asleep. Brush my teeth two or three times. I pace around my room a couple times, wake up my dog (and she is barking at me for waking her up too early), play some games on my phone, check Facebook. I’m anxious, and so I repeat the aforementioned routine. My parents and I finally drive over to meet up with Mark and Mary. I am excited to be traveling with Ellen’s parents to Tanzania, as I know there will be lots of fun storytelling and games to come on the trip. My mom (AKA safety patrol) is relieved that I will be traveling with Ellen’s parents because, frankly, she is worried that I will get lost, stuck, or somehow misplaced during my first international trip. (Mom, I made it back safe!) Mark and Mary are seasoned travelers, and my mom finds peace of mind in this; I can say that it is a luxury to be able to rely on them for all airplane details on the trip through our three stops: Minneapolis, Amsterdam, and Kilimanjaro.
Leaving KCI for Tanzania!  Brett, Mum and Pops

The meals on the plane go round and round! There is so much food on international flights, and this isn’t like hospital food, folks. This is the good stuff. Three meals and snacks in-between. The flight attendants in all blue are handing out chicken and seafood, salads, and chocolaty desserts. I get to lean back and watch movie, after movie, after movie while eating. It’s Christmas all over again! But the legroom sucks. This is the only time where I am thankful I am not taller because it would have been miserable to sit with numb legs for 18 hours…      

During the final three hours of the last flight transfer from Amsterdam to Tanzania, I am a nervous ball of energy. I unintentionally revert back to my Dennis the Menace days because I can’t sit still. I think Mark and Mary sensed this because, as soon as we stepped off the plane to go through customs in the Kilimanjaro airport, they sent me ahead through the customs line to greet Ellen first.

I could see Ellen sticking out among a small crowd:  Tall, beautiful, rosy-cheeked and sweaty. Just like I hoped, minus the sweating part. With luggage hanging awkwardly off of my every limb, I waddle up as fast as I can to give Ellen a big bear hug. It is fourteen months too long for a hug. We are both shaking and excited and smiling. I am now dripping sweat too, Karibu Tanzania. As customs are slow, her parents eventually join us. They are beaming as they walk up and give her big hugs as well. Man, it feels good to be with Ellen! Our travelling guide, Maji, welcomes us: KARIBU TANZANIA!      

Jet-lagged, we make our way to our first stay on safari near Arusha. It’s after midnight in Tanzanian time. The four of us are talking in flurries, gathering and sharing fourteen months of missing stories with Ellen. The Toyata Land Cruiser we ride in is still cooling down from a warm, sticky day. It feels like a night in July in Shawnee, Kansas.  Except it’s Africa! Crazy! I’m in shock, and my mind is trying to put all the new puzzle pieces together. The BUMPY dirt roads, the duka on the left and right, the signs posted everywhere, the motorcycles zooming by.  There are so many Coca-Cola signs. What?!? Where am I again?

Wildebeest at Ngorongoro Crater

The first five days of our trip is spent on a safari. We stay a night in Arusha, another night outside Ngorongoro Crater, and then end our safari on a three night stay in a Robin-Leach-worthy tent in the Serengeti. The lodging for the three places is top-of-the-line. My favorite stay is in the Exploreans Ngorongoro Lodge. Google it. It’s worth your time to Google. The log cabin style lodges with thatched roofs overlook the Ngorongoro volcanic landscape. It’s a place where fog settles over the tree line in the morning, and it feels like you are floating above the Earth. If you are a native of flat Kansas like myself, this sight is wholly unfamiliar. In the distance of the Exploreans lodging, you can see the start of the Game Reserve where the “Big 5” (Elephant, Leopard, Lion, Rhino, and Buffalo) roam. The food is lick-your-lips good. Any seafood that is offered, I am gobbling up. Mark and I are on a mission to try all of the beers offered, while Mary and Ellen try the wines. The Kilimanjaro is my favorite. The Tanzanian’s say that the Kilimanjaro is the “girl” beer.  Nevertheless, Mark and I agree that it was definitely the best of all the beers.  

We spend our nights on safari looking through photos of the LIONS-AND-ZEBRAS-AND-GIRAFFES-OH-MY, sharing funny stories about friends and family back home, and playing games like “Would you Rather” (thanks Mom for sending this game to Ellen). It is the start of many legendary inside jokes: “Tuliona Chui na Yue,” “Mhhhmmm (Sling Blade voice),” “6 inch big toe (don’t ask…).” New Year’s Eve is spent in the Serengeti camp.  We celebrate with a mixed group of travelers from Australia and the U.S., Masaai warriors, and the staff. The Masaai perform a ritual dance and invite us to join after a few drinks. We go to bed before we have a chance to teach ‘em how to dougie.
(Left) Taking a plane from the Serengeti to Dodoma

The last night of the trip in the Serengeti may have been one of the scariest moments of the trip. Mom, skip this section. Does anyone know what hyenas sound like when they hunt? Well, I do now.  Sometime in the middle of the night I was awakened by what sounded like a high-pitched laughing call.  It’s not what you want to hear within a short distance of your tent. The next morning, the Masaai warriors informed us that not only were there hyenas close by our tents, but lions can pass by as well! Crazy!          

I must also tell a short story about our stay in Dodoma, Ellen’s placement site in Tanzania, as it is something that I will never forget. Set the scene:  it’s breakfast time, my stomach is rumbling, and I know that I can’t get by only eating some of her sugary fruit snacks. I ask Ellen if she has anything else to eat, and she tells me that she has some oatmeal that I can have. When she hands it to me, I stir it around and take a few big bites. Mmmmm cinnamon. I am halfway through and, from the kitchen, I hear Ellen yell, “Whatever you have in your mouth, spit it out.” Wait, what did she just say?!? “Brett, I don’t know if there was anything in your food for sure, but I don’t want you to eat anymore of the oatmeal to be safe.” I just ate half of the oatmeal…what do you mean ‘to be safe?’ Little did I know that as she was sifting through the oatmeal some more, she thought she spotted a few weevils. She came into the room as I was scraping my tongue of any oatmeal remnants. Until this point in the trip, I had no troubles with digesting the food.  A couple of days after the “food incident,” I became a frequent flyer to the bathrooms. The conspiracy theorist in me will always blame the oatmeal. Ellen may have a different explanation.
View at the Lazy Lagoon off of Bagamoyo

The next two weeks are spent roughing it at Lazy Lagoon and Mafia Island. And by roughing it, I mean sitting around on islands that are in the Indian Ocean where the water is deep blue, the sand is blindingly white, and the food could inspire Gordon Ramsey. It is the first time I eat octopus, and it is surprisingly good!


At Lazy Lagoon, Ellen and I kayak to a sand bar, run the eastern limit of the beach that is lined with black coral, and swim for hours until we look like lobsters. We also take advantage of being lazy. We read books left over from travelers past, play with the manager’s dog, and partner up to play spades against Mark and Mary. I would love to say that Ellen and I worked well together and won. Welp, that didn’t happen. Not even close. Ellen and I have many years of practice before we can come close to competing in spades.

The weeklong stay at Mafia is bittersweet. Ellen and I swim with whale sharks!!! Yes, I said WHALE SHARKS—moving buses of the ocean. While I avoid getting swallowed the first time I dive into the ocean, it is not as scary as I initially made it out to be. The whale sharks have little interest in people and are more concerned with keeping their mouths open to swallow an ocean full of plankton. Ask Ellen what it feels like to swim into plankton—not fun! With few other guests on the side of the island that we are staying, it is almost as if we have an island to ourselves. Our days are as lazy as lazy can be. We eat four-course meals, play Sudokus, make friends with the staff, and occasionally run (I mean Ellen runs to prepare for her marathon and I continue relaxing). Although the goodbyes are tough, we smile through the stories from my 19 day journey. The countdown to her return is down to 10 months and counting…

-Brett Woods
Before dinner drinks on Mafia Island




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